Between Sizes? Here’s How to Choose

You’re standing in front of your mirror, the harsh overhead light casting shadows you’d rather not see. On your bed, a small mountain of clothes, each piece a silent testament to the eternal struggle of online shopping. This time, it’s a pair of wide-leg trousers you swore would be perfect for your friend’s surprise birthday dinner. You ordered a size 8 – your usual. They slide up your hips beautifully, but then you try to button them, and the fabric strains, pulling tight across your lower belly.

Okay, maybe a size 10, you think. The size 10 arrives two days later. You pull them on, hoping for that perfect, relaxed fit. They button easily, a sigh of relief escaping. But then you walk, and they slip down, pooling awkwardly around your ankles. You tug them up, only for them to slide back down again, leaving a gaping space at your lower back. You stare at your reflection, deflated. Neither size is quite right. You’re stuck in the frustrating limbo of being “between sizes.”

It’s a feeling we all know too well, isn’t it? That moment when you’re not quite a solid 8, but definitely not a 10 either. Or maybe you’re a 6 in one brand, a 4 in another, and a 28 in jeans from somewhere else entirely. It’s enough to make you want to throw your hands up and live in oversized hoodies forever. But you don’t have to. You deserve clothes that fit you, that make you feel incredible, and that celebrate your unique shape.

Here at OEL, we hear you. We understand the frustration, the endless returns, the quiet self-doubt that creeps in when clothes don’t seem to “fit” your body. But the reality is: this isn’t about your body. It’s about the system. And you can absolutely learn how to navigate it, even thrive in it.

The Chaotic Landscape of Sizing: Why We’re All Stuck Between Sizes

So, why does this happen? Why can you be a perfect size M in a cute sweater from one online boutique, then need an XL in a similar style from another? It boils down to a few key factors that have turned clothing sizes into a chaotic, unregulated landscape.

First, there’s no universal standard. Back in the 1940s, the US government actually tried to standardize women’s clothing sizes based on a survey of thousands of women [1]. But those efforts were eventually abandoned, and the fashion industry took over, each brand developing its own sizing charts. So, while men’s clothing often has more consistent measurements (think waist and inseam for jeans), women’s sizing remains largely unregulated.

Then, there’s “vanity sizing.” This is the industry’s not-so-secret trick where garment manufacturers gradually reduce the actual measurements of a given size label over time [2]. What was once a size 12 in the 1950s might be labeled a size 6 or even a 4 today. It’s designed to make you feel good about “fitting into a smaller size,” but it completely messes with consistency. You might pick up a pair of jeans from one brand that are a size 28 and fit perfectly, then grab a pair from another retailer with the same size tag that won’t even zip past your thighs.

So what if brands play fast and loose with numbers? Because it means you’re constantly second-guessing yourself, wasting money on returns, and losing precious time that could be spent doing things you love. It means you might internalize the idea that your body is the problem, when in reality, the labels are the problem. Understanding this frees you from that self-blame and empowers you to approach shopping with a new strategy.

The good news? You can beat the system. The key isn’t to change your body, but to change how you approach shopping. Here’s how to choose when you’re caught between sizes and build a wardrobe that actually works for your life.

Practical Tip #1: Your Personal Measurement Masterclass – Know Your Numbers

This is the absolute foundation, the secret weapon in your arsenal against inconsistent sizing. Forget the number on the tag for a moment. Your body has unique measurements, and once you know them, you unlock a whole new level of shopping confidence.

Here’s how to do it, step-by-step:

1. Gather Your Tools: You’ll need a soft tape measure (the kind tailors use), a pen, and a notebook or your phone’s notes app. Wear light clothing or just your underwear for the most accurate results.
2. Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your bust, keeping the tape measure snug but not tight. Make sure it’s parallel to the floor around your back.
3. Waist: Find your natural waist – usually the narrowest part of your torso, just above your belly button. Bend to the side; the crease is your natural waist. Measure around it.
4. Hips: Stand with your feet together and measure around the fullest part of your hips and bottom. This is usually about 7-9 inches below your natural waist.
5. Inseam: This is crucial for pants. Take a pair of pants that fit you perfectly in length. Lay them flat and measure from the crotch seam down to the hem.
6. Thigh: Measure around the fullest part of one thigh. This is especially helpful for jeans and fitted trousers.
7. Shoulder Width: Have a friend help you with this one, or do it by wrapping the tape measure from the end of one shoulder to the end of the other, across your upper back. This is key for blazers and structured tops.
8. Arm Length: Measure from the top of your shoulder (where the sleeve seam would sit) down to your wrist.

The “So What?” for Your Measurements:
Why go through all this trouble? Because with these numbers in hand, you can bypass the confusing size labels entirely. When you’re scrolling through ASOS or Nordstrom, instead of blindly picking a size 8 or 10, you can check the specific garment measurements provided in the product description. If a dress says its bust is 36 inches and your bust is 34 inches, you know it might be too big, even if it’s labeled your “usual” size. This means fewer returns, more successful purchases, and a whole lot less frustration.

This is also where OEL steps in – our virtual try-on isn’t just a fun filter, it’s your new secret weapon. By inputting your precise measurements, you can see exactly how a garment will drape, pull, or flow on your unique body, long before it ever lands on your doorstep. Imagine seeing that blazer fit your shoulders, or those trousers hug your hips, all from the comfort of your couch. It takes the guesswork out of being between sizes and puts the power back in your hands.

Practical Tip #2: The Brand Fit Profile – Your Personal Sizing Database

You’ve got your measurements. Now, let’s put them to work. The next step is to start building your own personal “Brand Fit Profile.” Because every brand is different, you’ll discover that you might be a size S in a flowy blouse from Madewell, but a size M (or even L) in a structured top from Reformation.

Here’s your actionable exercise:

1. Create a Simple System: Open a new note on your phone, start a Google Sheet, or even dedicate a small notebook. Title it “My Brand Fit Profile.”
2. Track Every Purchase: For every item you buy, especially online, record the following:
   • Brand Name: (e.g., Zara, ASOS, Lulus, Everlane)
   • Item Type: (e.g., Midi Dress, Skinny Jeans, Blazer, Knit Sweater)
   • Labeled Size: (e.g., S, M, L, 28, 8, 10)
   • How it Fit: (e.g., “Perfect,” “Too tight in hips,” “Too loose in waist,” “Sleeves too long,” “Needed to size up,” “Needed to size down”)
   • Your Actual Size: If you ended up returning and re-ordering, note the size that did fit.
   • Key Measurements (if available): If the brand provided garment measurements, jot down the ones relevant to your fit (e.g., “Bust: 34in, Waist: 27in”).
3. Pay Attention to Fabric: Note the fabric composition too. A dress with 5% spandex will fit differently than one that’s 100% cotton, even if they’re the same labeled size. Stretch makes a huge difference.
4. Review and Learn: Before you make your next online purchase, consult your Brand Fit Profile. If you’re eyeing a pair of jeans from a brand you’ve bought from before, you’ll know exactly how their sizing runs for your body.

So what if you track every detail? Because this isn’t just a list; it’s a powerful data set unique to you. It eliminates guesswork, saves you from endless returns, and most importantly, builds your confidence. You’ll stop feeling like a sizing failure and start feeling like an informed, strategic shopper. You’ll be able to predict how a brand’s size 8 will fit your body, even if it’s a size 6 from another.

Practical Tip #3: The Strategic Try-On – How to Assess Fit Like a Pro

Even with your measurements and brand knowledge, sometimes you still need to order two sizes. That’s okay! When those packages arrive, don’t just try them on and make a gut decision. Be strategic.

Here’s your step-by-step guide to assessing fit:

1. Order Both (or Even Three): If you’re genuinely between sizes, order the smaller size and the next size up. If a brand offers “petite” or “tall” options, consider those too, even if you don’t strictly fall into those categories – sometimes they simply offer better proportions.
2. Try Them On With the Right Undergarments & Shoes: What you wear underneath, and on your feet, can dramatically change how a garment sits. If it’s a dress for an event, wear the bra you plan to wear with it. If it’s jeans, wear the shoes you’d typically pair with them.
3. Do the “Movement Test”: Don’t just stand there. Sit down, raise your arms, bend over, walk around.
   • For tops/dresses: Can you lift your arms comfortably without the hem riding up too high or the shoulders feeling restrictive? Does it pull across your bust when you move?
   • For bottoms: Can you sit comfortably without the waistband digging in or the fabric straining? Do they slide down when you walk? Do they bunch awkwardly at the knees or crotch?
   • For blazers/jackets: Can you cross your arms easily? Does the fabric pull across your back? Do the shoulders hit at the right spot?
4. Focus on Key Fit Points:
   • Shoulders: For structured garments, the shoulder seam should hit right at the edge of your natural shoulder.
   • Waist: For high-waisted items, it should sit comfortably at your natural waist without gaping or digging.
   • Bust: No gaping buttons, no pulling fabric across the chest, but also not too much excess fabric.
   • Hips/Thighs: Should skim your body without being too tight or too baggy, unless it’s meant to be oversized.
   • Length: Consider where the hem falls for your height and personal preference.
5. Take Pictures (Front, Side, Back): A mirror can sometimes lie. A photo, especially from the back, gives you an objective view. You might see a sag you missed, or realize that one size truly is more flattering.
6. Compare and Contrast: Lay the two sizes side-by-side. You might be surprised how different they look, even if the difference on paper is just an inch or two.

So what if you meticulously compare? Because this systematic approach empowers you to make an informed decision based on how the clothes actually fit and feel, not just the number on the tag. You’ll pick the size that allows for comfortable movement and flatters your frame, ensuring you feel amazing when you step out the door.

Practical Tip #4: The Power of the “Almost Perfect” – Alterations and Styling Magic

Sometimes, even with all your strategic efforts, you find a piece you absolutely adore, but it’s still almost perfect. Maybe the shoulders fit, but the waist is a little loose. Or the length is just a touch too long. Don’t write it off! This is where the magic of alterations and smart styling comes in.

Easy Solutions for Your “Between Size” Pieces:

1. The Belt’s Embrace: For dresses or trousers that are a little loose in the waist, a well-placed belt can cinch you in, define your shape, and make the garment look custom-fitted. This is a budget-friendly way to make a size that’s slightly too big suddenly work.
2. The Tuck and the Tie: For oversized tops or blouses that are slightly too big, try a French tuck (tucking just the front) or tie a knot at the hem. This creates shape and prevents you from looking swamped in fabric.
3. Strategic Layers: A blazer or cardigan can camouflage a top that’s a bit loose, or add structure to a dress that feels shapeless.
4. The Hemming Hero: This is one of the easiest and most impactful alterations. Pants, skirts, and dresses that are too long can completely change their look with a simple hem. Many dry cleaners offer this service, and it’s usually quite affordable.
5. Simple Seam Adjustments: For a piece that’s just a little bit loose in the waist or hips, a tailor can often take in a seam by an inch or two. This is especially true for dresses, skirts, and trousers made from woven (non-stretchy) fabrics. Don’t be afraid to ask for quotes – a small investment can transform a garment from “meh” to “magnificent.”

So what if you embrace alterations and styling? Because it means you gain control over your wardrobe, turning nearly-there pieces into your absolute favorites. It’s about making fashion work for you, not the other way around. You can absolutely look amazing in clothes that feel like they were made just for you, regardless of the size on the tag.

Own Every Look, Every Size, Every Time

Being “between sizes” isn’t a flaw in your body; it’s a quirk of the fashion industry. By understanding why it happens and arming yourself with these practical tools – knowing your measurements, tracking brand fits, trying on strategically, and embracing alterations – you can navigate the online shopping world with newfound confidence.

You’re a dynamic, evolving woman, and your style should reflect that. No more settling for clothes that don’t quite fit, no more feeling frustrated by confusing labels. It’s time to reclaim your power, embrace your unique shape, and own every look, every size, every time. You’ve got this.

Sources:

[1] Standardization in the Garment Industry: A Historical Perspective
[2] The Shifting Shapes of Fashion: Understanding Vanity Sizing